Loom & Line

Textiles and writing have much in common. To create either requires the repetitive interweaving of words, or yarns. Both are linear: spun, layered, and crafted by the body and mind over a period of time. 

This micro-exhibit celebrates both labors of love by asking three writers Cristi Donoso, Emily Holland, and Sylvia Jones to craft poems inspired by the contemporary textiles of artists Jilli Blackwood, Dorothy Caldwell, and Bhakti Ziek. The exchange connects creatives across oceans and mediums, illuminating the art of community and the humanity in making.

In partnership with the Cotsen Textile Traces Study Center at The Textile Museum in Washington, D.C. The exhibit opens October 1, 2026. All interviews conducted by curator Emma Francois and have been edited and condensed for clarity.

Bhakti Ziek

When did you first identify as an artist?

I have a degree in psychology. I learned to weave in New York City [followed by] Mexico and Guatemala. But I did not think of myself as an artist. I just thought I had a facility for making.

In Guatemala, I worked with Mayan weavers. They would give me an a huipil, a top, that had already been woven. As a good student, if they used green, orange, and pink, I had to follow with green, orange, and pink. It was never a question of trying to be an individual, especially the way we think of artists in [the United States]. I knew how to follow directions.

In 1978, I enrolled at the University of Kansas in Lawrence. I wanted to become a textile conservator. Again, not thinking of myself at all as a creative person, but with this interest in textiles and a facility for making. I had a Design 1 class that just opened my world to the fact that every day when I get dressed, I make decisions. Visual decisions. It gave me a kind of confidence.

I still didn’t have a sense of real creativity until my senior year. We were expected to do a body of work. I started to take everything I had learned about dyes and weaving and combine them. I loved it. That’s when I started to think, ‘I don’t want to be a conservator. I want to make my own work.’

The question of whether I’m an artist or not, I still am not sure. I’m not sure that an individual can label themselves that way. I think I’m a student of textiles, especially weaving, and that I’m still learning, discovering, and enjoying myself.

How do you sustain a creative life?

I know so many people who have started out at the loom and gone in other directions. I actually think it’s very rare that I am weaving for over 50 years. But I can always find something else to explore.

Actually, I’m talking to you at a moment where I actually feel like I’ve had an opening, like an energy block has been lifted, and I’m suddenly really exploring. I’m not at a place right now where I want to show the current work—the things on my loom—in an exhibit, but I know it will lead somewhere.

I think that’s the trick. You just have to find a question. That should take you on.

You have a kind of faith: You’re doing what interests you, and that’s bringing you back, and one day, maybe, it will turn into something. But you seem to be enjoying the process.

I am definitely interested in making things. I’m not interested in sending out an image and having somebody else make it, because I know that it’s in the making that the next question comes up.

I just wrote a friend today encouraging her about this process of work and what it means. When you first start out, you think there is a goal to reach. But I think of it as a path. And it’s just my life path, right? I often say weaving is like my lifeline. It’s been the organizational principle in my life.

I know that I am working. I see things; every step of the way there’s a decision. Do I go left or right? Do I use this color or that color? You have to make a decision. And when you make that decision, it eliminates some others. But then it brings to the table another question.

I’m mostly dissatisfied with the final result of any piece, but there’s something in there that leads me to the next piece. I think that people who send their work out, they’re missing this opportunity…Doing the work is so key.

What’s your presence like when you are working?

People have this idea that meditation is like a zooming out, right?…I think that meditation is being present, being aware. Aware of each breath in and out. And that is hard. That’s hard work. That’s what I feel about weaving.

You seem to have embraced technology without losing any connectivity to weaving.

That’s because a loom is technology. I am fascinated by tools, by the equipment. I think I’m a weaver because I really love looms. Even today, if I see someone weaving, I stop and look at it.

What inspired ‘Small Diamonds #8’?

My mother was at the end of her life, and I was visiting her where she lives with my brother in Colorado. My mom was a great reader. I never saw my mom without a book in her hand. At the kitchen table, in the car, everywhere. I don’t know anyone who read like my mom. She was sitting in bed and she had a book, but the book was upside down.

I said to my mom, ‘What’s going on? What’s going on with you?’ And she said, ‘Your life is going like this. My life is going like that.’ And she drew a diamond in the air.

You know, I’m at that stage, too. My life is going like this now [narrowing to a point]. I totally understand it.

Diamonds are all over the world, throughout the history of textiles. Diamonds show up everywhere. Because weaving is based on a grid. I had been doing diamonds in my work. But suddenly I had a personal reason. I had a story. And I do think I’m a storyteller. It just gave me permission.

Looking at ‘Small Diamonds #8’ today, what do you think?

I’m a product of my age, so I like abstract work…At that point, my husband and I were living on land that we owned south of Santa Fe. I was trying to grow a natural dye garden.

I’m interested by how dull the colors are. I’m not saying ‘dull’ in a negative way. But I think I was using chamisa and logwood [from the garden] in that weaving.

I love cloudy [skies] before the rain. So [‘Small Diamonds #8’ is] kind of cloudy, moody. I’m very somber myself.

It’s interesting, cycles of inquiry. I am back working with diamonds. If I don’t know what I want to say, I can’t work. Sort of like writer’s block. I can have periods where I feel like I know how to say anything in weaving, but I don’t always know what to say. Unless you have a clarity about an expression, it’s hard to go forward.

That’s when I remember that the process itself could be enough. Working with circles or diamonds, just geometry, can get me going. And then again, like I said before, through doing the work, the next set of questions comes up.

[These diamonds] do represent my mom [expanding and narrowing] with a single diamond. But then you put my mom, my grandmother, me…we become this lineage.

I have thought about doing a series of diamonds, shapes that reflect on genealogy. I’m the end of the rope for me, for my line. But that doesn’t mean humanity ends. I hope humanity doesn’t end.

Being a weaver doesn’t just connect me to the present, though it’s a living process. We’re all wearing clothes, have rugs, bedspreads, towels. I see myself as the current iteration of this long, long line of weavers, anonymous weavers.

I know a lot of people who are trying to set their legacy. They feel they have led an important life and want to contribute. And I understand that, but I think I’m a realist. Maybe my niece and her kids will remember my work, but it’s not earth shattering. But it’s critical because I’ve kept alive something. I’m just a link. We’re just links. We’re those diamonds that connect to each other. And that’s what’s important.

I think of all your students and I see your ‘diamonds’ all around.

I won’t have children, but I have had students. My students have had [their own] students; some of my students are already retiring and their students are taking over. It goes quickly.

I love that [young people are] interested in textiles. That is what gives me the hope. I am in touch with some of my former students and it’s very gratifying to see their growth. They stimulate me.

You seem beyond this, but I have to say, you have an amazing legacy.

I’m old. So, you know, a lot of things that are really critical in young people’s lives I have the answers for already. I just feel lucky that there’s still something that’s getting me out of bed and excited. That’s enough.

That’s everything, honestly.

You know, I have seen moments before where people say textiles are now ‘the thing.’ It comes and goes. You have to find your anchor in your own private life: friends, family, and work.

Dorothy Caldwell

What’s it like revisiting ‘Bare Rocks/Protected Buds’ today?

There are some pieces you remember with fondness. That was one of those pieces.

Sometimes pieces, they surprise you. There’s something that happens in the [process] that you weren’t expecting.

I mainly work with the subject of land and place, using the vocabulary of textile. That little piece came out of a series from a residency in Newfoundland. I was walking the coast every day. Sometimes I’d take fabric with wax on it that I could lay on the rocks and scrape to get almost a rubbing.

During that time, I was working in a batik technique. I came out of a painting background. I moved to Canada with a group of people working mostly in craft-based arts. I was trying to think of something I could do that was similar to painting. Batik filled that space because I could use tjanting tools [and] draw. I could paint the dyes on using paint brushes. The tools were familiar, so it made a nice bridge between painting over to textile.

Of course, I had a whole new tradition to learn about and research, which has been a lifetime of work.

Tell me more about ‘Bare Rocks/Protected Buds’.

All of those little black marks [seen on ‘Bare Rocks/Protected Buds’] are tjanting marks drawn by hand with a tjanting tool and wax. They were drawn on black cotton and then the color was discharged or removed.

‘Bare Rocks/Protected Buds’ and ‘Between Two Fields’ [are from the time] when I had just figured out how to draw into the wax and have the discharge go into the drawn marks so that you would see the drawn mark as a white mark on black instead of a black mark on white.

It took me a long time to figure out how to do that. I started using regular beeswax and paraffin, [which] was too hard to get delicate marks. Then, I tried potter’s wax. By building up layers of that on the fabric, I could then draw with a sharp object into the wax. It’s similar to printmaking or etching. [‘Bare Rocks/Protected Buds’] was one of the early ones. I hadn’t quite figured it out yet, but I was really thrilled to add that way of working to my vocabulary.

What’s your mindset like when working?

I start with making a surface, either the batik marks or the silkscreen marks so I have something to grip onto and work with; it’s not a white piece of fabric or a white canvas.

I’m not really thinking particularly of anything. Sometimes [the marks] reflect textures from the land, but I don’t think literally in that way. It might just come through.

Then I put the fabric up on my studio wall and look at it. Then I really hate it! I see all the flaws. But those are actually what I work with.

I almost consider my work as a repair project. Once I figured that out, then I don’t get so worried now when I put it up and I hate it; I know I can reconstruct, mend, repair. That’s what actually informs the piece.

Sounds like you have faith in your process.

That’s how I start working.

‘Between Two Fields,’ was from a period where I was working with the place that I live. I came out of Philadelphia and Washington, D.C., to a very rural community [in Canada] and started to notice the human marks on the land, how they collide with the natural textures and landmarks that are there naturally in forms. I like that contrast.

[I realized] that the four patch, the simplest of quilt configurations, was like the land I live on, which is four fields divided with two tree lines. I really liked that relationship. If you fly over, you see it very dramatically. It’s present in our cities that are grids as well.

I like the way fields come together and one’s barley, one’s wheat, the subtle differences. That set off a whole way of looking at land. I still look at my own place and think about how we all live on a stage and have landmarks that hold you there. I’ve lived on my farm for a long time, and the hill behind is an anchor. The body of water in front is another anchor. Those forms show up in my work. This long, lovely line of the hill. Might just be a line. No one knows it’s the hill, but for me, that’s where it came from.

At what point do you name your pieces?

I name them after. [‘Bare Rock/Protected Buds’ came from the name for] Newfoundland, ‘the rock.’ It’s not cold because there’s ocean and there’s ground cover. The things that grow there are low to the ground, these lovely textures over the rocks, like a sweater for the ground.

I always liked seeing in the cracks, the crevices in the rocks where things would start to grow. [The plants] could have this microclimate that would protect them enough to let them create a little garden in those cracks.

Sounds both hardy and soft.

There’s a duality. I often look at the larger geological form in a place. For example, looking at a mountain, you’re looking at it from a distance. You don’t really touch it with your body, you see it. But then, when you walk over land, your feet are walking on ground cover, you can actually have a very intimate relationship.

In many of my pieces, [there’s] a larger form that sets an anchor for the piece. Their intimate details are experienced when you go up close.

What informed your artistic eye?

I was always an artist. I never had a choice. When I was fifteen, I tried to be a veterinarian. My parents were horrified, going, ‘She’s not really very good in chemistry.’ They really were supportive of my art. It was always what I did, from the age of three. It was a part of everything. More than drawing, it was ‘making.’

My parents were into making stuff, too. My dad’s father worked in the Central Market in Washington, D.C. He was a dairy man. He sold milk, cheese, and eggs. My father’s family developed patterns for Easter eggs. As a family, every year, they painted eggs, which my grandfather sold in the market. We did this every year. He taught us this whole set of patterns. That really made me interested in pattern and repetitive marks.

When did you discover textile art?

I grew up with my grandmother’s and my great grandmother’s quilts on our bed. But I never thought of it as ‘art.’ I mean, it didn’t occur to me.

When I went to art school many years ago, there were no textile courses. I probably would have gravitated to it had it been an option. I was just on the cusp of women’s lib and discovering women’s art. It just wasn’t a part of my school.

[My mother took] me to the Jonathan Holstein quilt exhibition [at the Renwick Museum] in the 70’s. It started at the Whitney Museum. It was a big deal, [an exhibit of] visually stunning quilts from his collection. I was blown out by those quilts. They were like the Color Field paintings we were looking at in art school. They were almost better! It still didn’t occur to me that that was art, or that was something I could do. But I was totally taken by that exhibition.

[Later I] moved to Canada with this group of art students. We all wanted to get our art practices started. We had this idea to buy land together. It was too expensive in Pennsylvania. We were thinking of upper New York State. One of the people in our group had been on a canoe trip in Canada. He said, ‘If we’re going that far north, maybe we should think about Canada.’ He described…the petroglyphs, this important group of ancient carvings made by the First Nations people. We all just went, ‘Yeah, that’s where we should go!’

We had enough money to send two people up. They scouted for a suitable place for this group of seven, three couples and one single person, all artists recently graduated from art school in Philadelphia. They found this lovely little 50 acre farm and farmhouse with little outbuildings that could be studios and a barn. It was $13,000 so we each had to come up with $500. Difficult at that time, but we managed it.

There was a glass blower, a ceramic artist, a weaver, everyone was in craft-based arts. I guess I didn’t feel that committed to painting, although I did paint for the next couple of years. I started to make forays into textile and seeing where that would go.

My real commitment to textile came in the 80’s when I was part of a six-week program called the Fiber Artists Interchange in Banff, Alberta. They selected 10 artists to come and work. The fabulous thing about it, was every week they brought in a really well-known textile person. One week, Mildred Constantine, who was the head of drawing at MoMA, came. She ended up writing one of the first books on contemporary textile. Jack Larson came for a week. [They] made me realize, ‘Wow, you can do this and be an artist.’ That solidified that direction for me.

I’m struck by the story of you and your friends taking this awesome leap and moving together, fully committing to art.

I think about it now, I go, ‘Wow.’

It was very important that we were this group. The house we lived in, it was lovely. I actually live across the road from the original farm now. It had no electricity or running water, which was all the more exciting to us. Although, a few years down the road, when we got electricity, we were pretty excited about that.

How do you sustain a creative life?

Community is important. Being an artist is a very solitary endeavor. I like that about it.

I spent a lot of years teaching and that was a nice balance because I could go and see what other people were doing and interact with students. Very few artists make a complete living from their work, especially in the beginning.

I did a lot of teaching in Australia. I generally had a grant to then go and work in the outback and work with materials from those places: earth pigments, plant material, and so forth. I [also taught in] Italy, England, Switzerland, as well as the Canadian Arctic.

You’re not only inspired by your surroundings, but using the very earth to create your art.

Place is really important.

I do a lot of research. I really use museums. I would go and spend days taking notes, photographing, making drawings, and looking at the textile tradition.

Australia [houses] a lot of work with handmade, hand-spun string. [I learned] how to make string from the Aboriginal women. That is used to construct baskets and bags. The coloring material is usually Australian earth pigments and ochres. They rub them into whatever material they’re using. Dyeing fabric in a country with no water doesn’t make sense, but using these beautiful earth pigments made sense.

That led me to working in some of the ochre pits that had gorgeous colors. Each trip built into the next trip. By the time I’d taken a few trips, I was preparing fabric beforehand in my studio, heavily stitching cloth that I could carry out to the ochre pit and then work with the ochres, grinding them, and working them into the fabric that’d already been stitched. Then I could work back into it, scraping with a knife or taking some of the pigments off the stitches to bring them up. Using the materials directly from the place was very satisfying.

Jilli Blackwood

When did you first think of yourself as an artist?

I realized I wanted to go to art school at the tender age of 15. I was taken by my school [in Scotland] to the Glasgow Art School fashion show. I had dressed up for this occasion. I was sitting in the audience, looking at all the students presenting their work. I thought to myself, ‘I want to be one of them.’ I think as soon as that penny dropped, I wanted to be an art student.

Do you remember what you wore to the fashion show?

I do. I had a pair of cinnamon linen trousers. They were quite baggy. I had stuffed them into a pair of cowboy boots, so they had this kind of pantaloon look at the bottom. I was wearing my mother’s darker tan suede jacket, and I had this little scarf, red and white, just tied round my neck. Of course, I had my makeup on.

I describe moments in my life like white stallions. They come rushing towards you, and you can not grab the mane and jump on and just let them pass. I have done that stupidly. But I realized this was one of these moments that was the horse I had to grab hold of.

When did I start to identify as an artist? I actually think it took me a long time. I got married very young. I think I was 23. I actually can’t remember. But I was young, and I had three daughters. I think my last daughter came along when I was about 32. So you can see in my CV that the year after they were born, it’s all pretty quiet. I wanted to be a great mother. I did have a studio, but it wasn’t big. But I kept going.

When did you make the bag in our collection? What do you notice revisiting it today?

I’m so excited about seeing this little bag again. It’s really funny. When [I recently] discovered it was in [the Cotsen Textile Traces Study] Collection, I was dumbfounded how this could have come about. It could only have been when I had the exhibition in London at the Crafts Council Shop at the Victoria and Albert [V&A] Museum. That’s what I narrowed it down to.

When I saw the picture of a little bag, I couldn’t remember making [it], but I could remember the fabric. I can’t remember making the handle. [It] looks as though it’s slightly stiffened, rounded. And that surprised me. I thought, ‘Gosh, why did I do that?’ It was a piece I had forgotten about.

It was just incredible to meet it again and to know where it was living. I feel so honored to be in [the] collection. I can’t tell you how amazed I am to have found out that it travelled. I made it in Scotland, it went to the V&A in London, and then it was bought by an American collector, then donated. Lovely story, that path this little piece has taken just blows my mind.

Little bags are just so in. These micro bags. It did make me think this is something I would like to revisit and develop, seeing it again. I’m quite pleased I did that.

How do you sustain a creative life? How do you keep going, stay hopeful, stay inspired?

I totally understand the doubt and the fear. I have lived with that a lot. But as I grow older, it’s much easier to manage. I don’t have the doubt and the fear anymore. It’s quite remarkable because it used to live on my shoulder. How I deal with it now, I do yoga in the morning, but I don’t like to call it yoga. I call it ‘body maintenance.’ Because I’m never going to be able to stand on my hands with my legs [in the air]. It’s never going to be possible. I look at it from the point of view it’s all to do with breathing. It’s all to do with keeping everything working properly in my body, building strength so I can maintain my practice.

I think sustaining my practice has got a lot to do with discipline, whether it is doing yoga, whether it is doing my work, it’s discipline across every area of my life, even when it comes to cooking.

I think also to be able to sustain my practice, I have realized that I am in a very privileged position to be an artist and to create. To have things in your head and then one day decide, ‘I’ve got to take that out of my head and I’ve got to bring it into this world.’

I turned 60 this year. I actually think it’s really beneficial to be older. I think when you're younger, it’s much harder; the devils and the doubts, they’re much harder to control. But you’ve got to go through all that to arrive at my stage. It’s all about showing up in here every single day.

I work from home. I gave myself the drawing room of the flat. I got divorced in 2008. It was awful for my daughters, but we’ve all managed to muddle through. I was married for 21 years. So I gave it my best shot. That’s the other thing. I don’t give up. But unfortunately, I had to give that up. I think that was actually quite an important watershed moment in my life.

This was the first time I was living on my own, which was quite bizarre. But I really enjoy it. I just love it. I wouldn’t give it up for anything. [Divorce] was a real growing spurt for me because I really realized, ‘I’ve got to make it on my own now.’

Sustaining my artistic practice is the same thing as feeding myself. It’s the same thing as sustaining my friendships. It’s showing up and giving your best at every point you possibly can and being generous. I think that’s important.

How did you develop your signature ‘slash and show’ style? And what does it do for you?

As soon as Jean Muir [legendary British fashion designer, during a university visit] pointed out what I was doing, what came naturally to me, I couldn’t stop. I just couldn’t stop.

Taking the work out after I graduated, and seeing interior designers and couturier designers getting very excited about what I was doing was a remarkable thing. So I developed it, I suppose, just working in different ways, different colors. I hand-dye the majority of my fabrics. I’m playing around with different weights of silk and muslins, linens, and leather. Color is just so, so important.

The work is crazy. I mean, it really is crazy. The hours that it takes. But I just love working. I don’t care how long it takes to achieve something. So long as it arrives, that’s the most important thing.

When I graduated from Glasgow School of Art I felt I had to show people how they could use these fabrics. So I created top hats. I also made waistcoats. I felt that people might think these fabrics will just fall apart. I was trying to show them that they wouldn’t.

In 2002, I received a grant from Creative Scotland to take my labor-intensive, embroidered and woven fabrics and use the digital printing process to print my designs. It’d been something I’d been wanting to do for a long time. I had to wait for technology to catch up with me.

You’ve been painting more as well, but you can see the overlap with your textile art.

I actually think that is what’s so clever about textile art. You can wear it, you can have it on your wall. I’m actually amazed where textiles can take you. It’s freeing.

Nowadays, textile art is being recognized, and it should be recognized. It’s wonderful that big institutions are now recognizing our art form, our medium. What I’m trying to do through my practice is make the major institutions and the collectors understand when you’re buying a piece of art, you’re actually buying a piece of an artist’s mind at that particular time of their life. It doesn’t have to be a rectangle or a square, be behind glass and in a frame to be important and to be artistic. My creativity and my imagination is as important as a [Joan] Miró, [Pablo] Picasso, a Jackson Pollock.